"Preliminary report: Engineering geology of the city of San Diego, California."

"Reconnaissance study: Black's Beach and Sunset Clifs areas; San Diego, California."

(1978). Reconnaissance Survey of the San Diego La Jolla Ecological Reserve: Area of Special Biological Significance.

(1984). The Coast of California Storm and Tidal Waves Study., U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Anderson, R. Chemical Studies of Primitive Marine Organisms: Porifera and Bacteria.

Axelrod, D. I. (1982). "Age and origin of the Monterey Endemic Area." Madrono 29(3): p. 127-147.

Barry, C. K. (1973). Experimental Analysis of Habitat Selection in Epiphytic Shrimps of the Genus Hippolyte in Southern California.

Barry, J. P. (1988). Pattern and process: patch dynamics in a rocky intertidal community in Southern California. Scripps Institution of Oceanography. San Diego, CA, University of California, San Diego.

Bernstein, B. B. (1977). Selective Pressures and Coevolution in a Kelp Canopy Community in Southern California.

Bishop, M. J. a. S. J. B. "A census of marine prosobranch gastropods at San Diego, California." Veliger 16(2): 143-152.

Clarke, T. A. "Territorial boundaries, courtship, and social behavior in the Garibaldi, Hypsypops rubicunda (Pomacentridae)." 295.

Clarke, T. A. (1968). Territorial Behavior and Population Dynamics of Garibaldi, Hypsypops rubicunda (Girard), Pisces: Pomacentridae.

Clarke, T. A. (1970). "Territorial behavior and population dynamics of a Pomacentrid fish, the garabaldi, Hypsypops rubicunda." Ecological Monographs 40(2): 189-212.

Clutter, R. I. (1963). Distribution Pattern, Aggregation Behavior, and Dynamics of a Population of a Hypoplanktonic Mysid, Metamysidopsis elongata.

Clutter, R. I. (1967). "Zonation of near shore mysids." Ecology 48(2): 201.

Davies, B. M. a. A. R. F. (1992). "Pocket gopher abundance, soil depth, and vegetation relationships in coastal sage scrub and grassland communities."

Davis, N. Studies of the Southern California Nearshore Sand Bottom Community.

Dayton, P. K. a. M. J. T. (1984). "Catastrophic storms, El Nino, and patch stability in a southern California kelp community." Science 224: 283-285.

De Coursey, P. J. (1976). Biological Rhythms in the Marine Environment. Columbia, SC, South Carolina Press.

Del Moral, R. a. D. C. D. (1976). "Vegetation of the Mima Mounds, Washington State." Ecology 57: p. 520-530.

Dingler, J. R. (1970). Wave-formed ripples in nearshore sands. Scripps Institution of Oceanography. San Diego, CA, University of California, San Diego.

Dingler, J. R. (1974). Wave-Formed Ripples in Nearshore Sands.

Ebert, T. A., S.C. Schroeder, J.D. Dixon, Kalvass (1994). "Settlement patterns of red urchins (S. francis and S. purperatus) in California, USA." Marine Ecology Progress Society 111: 41-52.

Elgar, S., B. Raubenheimer, and R.T. Guza (2000 (submitted)). "Current meter performance in the surf zone." Journal of Atmospheric Ocean Technology.

Enright, J. T. (1961). "Lunar orientation of Orchestoidea corniculata Stout (Amphipoda)." Biological Bulletin 120(2): 148-156.

Enright, J. T. (1961). Distribution, Population Dynamics, and Behavior of a Sand Beach Crustacean, Synchelidium sp.

Enright, J. T. (1962). "Responses of an Amphipod to pressure changes." Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 7: 131-145.

Enright, J. T. (1963). "The tidal rythm of activity of a sand-beach Isopod." Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 46: 276-313.

Enright, J. T. (1965). "Entrainment of a tidal rythm." Science 147(3660): 864-867.

Enright, J. T. (1967). "Temperature compensation in stout-duration and time measurements by an intertidal Amphipod." Science 156(3781): 1510-1512.

Enright, J. T. (1971). "The internal clock of drunken Isopods." Z. Vergl Physiologie 75: 332-346.

Enright, J. T. (1972). "A virtuoso Isopod: Circa-lunar rythms and their fine structure." J. Comp. Physiol. 77: 141-162.

Enright, J. T. (1976). "Plasticity in an Isopod's clockworks: Shaking shapes form and frequency." J. Comp. Physiol. 107: 13-37.

Enright, J. T. (1978). "Migration and homing of marine invertebrates: a potpourri of strategies." Animal Migration, Navigation, and Homing.

Fager, E. W. (1964). "Marine sediments: Effects of a tube-building Polychaete." Science 143(3604): 356-359.

Flick, R. E. (2000). "Time-of-Day of Peak in a Mixed-Tide Regime." Shore & Beach 68(4): 15-17.
The occurance along the California coast of highest-high tides in the morning during winter and in the afternoon during summer is explained as the interaction of the two largest tide constituents (M2 and K1). This seasonally oscillating, loose phase locking of the time of day of peak high tides is a consequence of the area's mixed-tide regime, and an example of how tide characteristics of mixed-tide regions differ from those in areas with predominantly semi-daily tides. The observed pattern of peak high tides has has notable consequences for coastal storm-preparedness, nearshore sedimentation cycles, and the distribution of inter-tidal organisms.

Ford, R. F. (1965). Distribution, Population Dynamics, and Behavior of a Bothid Flatfish, Citharichtys stigmaeus.

Fotheringham, N. "Field identification of crab predation in Shaskyus festivus and Ocenebra poulsoni (Prosobranchia: Muricidae)." The Veliger 14(2): 204.

Fotheringham, N. (1970). Growth, Mortality, and Feeding Patterns of the Littoral Gastropods Shaskyus festivus (Hinds) and Ocenebra poulsoni Carpenter (Prosobranchia: Muricidae).

Fotheringham, N. (1971). "Life history patterns of the littoral gastropods Shaskyus festivus (Hinds) and Ocenebra poulsoni Carpenter (Prosobranchia: Muricidae)." Ecology 52(5): 742-757.

Fox, D. L., V.E. Smith, R.W. Grigg, and W.D. MacLeod (1969). "Some structural and chemical studies of the microspicules in the fan coral Eugorgia ampla." Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 28: 1103-1114.

Gallagher, E. L., W. Boyd, S. Elgar, R.T. Guza, B. Woodward (1996). "Performance of a sonar altimeter in the nearshore." Marine Geology 133: 241-248.
A 1 MHz sonar altimeter with automatic gain control is shown to provide accurate estimates of the distance between the instrument and the seafloor. Laboratory experiments indicate that distance estimates degrade slightly when the bottom is rough or sloped and when sediment is suspended in the water column. Results from field tests, both within and seaward of the surf zone, show some degradation owing to a combination of suspended sediment and bubbles, bed undulations, and perhaps the dynamic nature of the sand bottom under waves. Seaward of the surf zone the bottom can be located within + or - 3 cm. A 300 m long cross-shore transect of 16 altimeters was deployed from the shoreline to about 4 m depth for 3 months in summer-fall 1994 near Duck, NC. Results show that the altimeters are robust and can usually provide estimates of the seafloor position every few minutes even in the surf zone during large storms.

George, R., R.E. Flick, R.T. Guza (1994). "Observations of turbulence in the surf zone." Journal of Geophysical Research 99(C1): 801-810.
Turbulence generated by waves breaking on a natural beach is examined using hotfilm anemometer data. Turbulence intensity is estimated from dissipation rates determined from wavenumber spectra of short (1/8 s) hotfilm time series. The resulting Froude-scaled turbulence intensities are relatively uniform between the seabed and the wave trough level and are similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in existing laboratory studies. The magnitudes of turbulence intensities observed in both the field and laboratory are consistent with intensities generated by monochromatic waves in small-scale laboratory experiments to those generated by random waves in the natural surf zone.

Gomez, E. D. (1973). The Biology of the Commensal Barnacle Balanus galeatus (L.) with Special Reference to the Complemental Male-Hermaphrodite Relationship.

Grayum, M. H. a. D. L. K. (1982). "New records of vascular plants from the Santa Monica Mountains, California, and adjacent parts of Los Angeles and Ventura Counties." ALISO 10(2): p. 313-320.

Grigg, R. W. (1970). Ecology and Population Dynamics of the Gorgonians, Muricea californica and Muricea fruticosa.

Grigg, R. W. (1972). "Orientation and growth form of sea fans." Limnology and Oceanography 17(2): 185-192.

Hartline, A. C. (1972). The Ecology of the Subtidal Acorn Barnacle, Balanus pacificus Pilsbury.

Hartwick, R. F. (1975). Orientation Behavior in Beach Hoppers of the Genus Orchestoidea: Capacities and Strategies.

Hayes, W. B. (1969). Ecological Studies on the High Beach Isopod Tylos punctatus Holmes and Gay.

Holland, K. T., B. Raubenheimer, R.T. Guza, and R.A. Holman (1995). "Run-up kinematics on a natural beach." Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C3): 4985-4993.
Runup kinematics on a gently sloping natural beach are examined with detailed measurements from video images, resistance wires deployed at five elevations (between 5 and 25 cm) above and parallel to the beach face, and pressure sensors located in the inner surf zone. As suggested in a previous study comparing a single-level resistance wire and manually digitized films, runup measurements are sensitive to the sensor elevation above the bed, owing to the elongated shape of the runup tongue. The measured mean runup elevation (setup) and vertical excursion increase as the sensor elevation decreases, with the video-based runup estimates having the maximum means and variances. For the six data runs the average ratios of the video-based setup and significant runup excursion to estimates based on wires elevated 15 cm above the bed are 2.7 and 1.5, respectively. These trends, combined with the high coherence and small phase difference between the video and the lowest wire, demonstrate that the video-based estimates correspond to a very near-bed (less than a few centimeters elevation) wire measurement. The measured increase in runup excursion with decreasing sensor elevation and the cross-shore variation in the amplitudes of pressure fluctuations at infragravity frequencies, are consistent with the theory for linear, inviscid, normally incident standing waves. For example, valleys in the pressure spectra occur at apporximately the predicted standing wave nodal frequencies. Also in accord with smal-amplitude wave theory, observed swash excursions are nearly identical to pressure fluctuations at the location of the measured runup mean (for pressure sensors located seaward of the most offshore bed-level rundown). However, at very low frequencies, where reflection is typically assumed complete and dissipation negligible, the observed, near-bed swash magnitudes are overamplified relative to a best fit of the linear standing wave model based on the amplitude and phase of the seaward observations.

Hurley, A. C. (1973). "Fecundity of the acorn barnacle Balanus pacificus Pilsbury: A fugitive species." Limnology and Oceanography 18(3): 386-393.

Hurley, A. C. (1973). "Larval settling behavior of the acorn barnacle (Balanus pacificus, Pilsbury) and its relation to distribution." Journal of Animal Ecology 42: 599-609.

Inman, D. L., C.E. Nordstrom, and D.G. Aubrey Longshore transport of sand.: chapter 18.

Inman, D. L., R.J. Tait, and C.E. Nordstrom (1971). "Mixing in the surf zone." Journal of Geophysical Research 76(15): 3493.

Inman, D. L., C.E. Nordstrom, and D.G. Aubrey (1977). "Beach profile analysis underway at Scripps." Southern California Sediment Management Newsletter 2: 4.

Inman, D. L., C.E. Nordstrom, and D.G. Aubrey (1978). The impact of coastal structures on shorelines. Proceedings of the Symposium on Technical, Environmental, Socioeconomic, and Regulatory Aspects of Coastal Zone Management.

Jenny, H., R.J. Arkley, and A.M. Schultz (1969). "The Pygmy Forest-podsol ecosystem and its dune associates of the Mendocino coast." Madrono 20(2): p. 60-74.

Jones, L. L. (1978). The Life History Patterns and Host Selection Behavior of a Sponge Symbiont, Membranobalanus orcutti.

Klapow, L. A. (1970). "Ovoviviparity in the genus Excirolana (Crustacea: Isopoda)." J. Zool., London 162: 359-369.

Klapow, L. A. (1971). The Ecology and Behavior of a Sand Beach Isopod, Excirolana chiltoni: Distribution, Abundance, and Temporal Patterns in Molting, Reproduction, and Swimming Activity.

Klapow, L. A. (1972). "Natural and artificial rephasing of a tidal rythm." J. Comp. Physiol. 79: 233-258.

Klapow, L. A. (1972). "Fortnightly molting and reproductive cycles in the sand-beach Isopod Excirolana chiltoni." Biological Bulletin 143: 568-591.

Kobayashi (1979). California Marine Waters: Areas of Special Biological Significance Reconnaissance Survey Report: San Diego Marine Life Refuge., State Water Resources Control Board: 68.

Lewbel, G. S. (1976). Sex ratios in Caprella gorgonia.

Mynderse, J. Halogenated Monoterpenes from Plocamium cartilagineum Dixon and Plocamium violaceum Farlow.

Navarro, J. M. (2001). Density of Juvenile Mussels in San Diego County: A Study on Two Scales. La Jolla, UCSD/SIO: 1-14.
Mystilus mussels are a group of marine invertebrets that occur throughout the rocky intertidal of San Diego county. Declining populations of adult mussel beds in a marine protected area, Cabrillo National Monument, has become a topic of concern. The purpose of the study was to determine if this problem is related to pre-settlement or post settlement processes by determining density of juvenile mussels in certain zones of Cabrillo as well as at a larger, regional scale. Results showed that there are few settlers in Cabrillo, most notably in the southern section. This indicates that pre-settlement processes are, at least in part contributing to a decline in adult mussels in Cabrillo National Monument.

Nishimori, R. The Petrology and Geochemistry of Gabbros from the Penninsular Ranges Batholith, California, and a Model for Their Origin.

Olson, M. S., T.D. Finnigan, A. Milgram, R.A. Arkin, V.J. Paul, S. Glass, G.B. Rankin, and R.S. Kaufman (1979). "Observations on the population dynamics and ecology of the California spiny lobster, Panulirus interruptus."

Patton, J. Comparative Studies of Triglyceride and Wax Ester Digestion in Fish and the Characterization of a Novel Nonspecific Triglyceride Lipase.

Pawlik, J. R. (1988). Chemical induction of the larval settlement of honeycomb worms (Polychaeta: Saberllariidae). Scripps Institution of Oceanography. San Diego, CA, University of California, San Diego.

Pineda, J. (1991). "Predictable Upwelling and the Shoreward Transport of Planktonic Larvae by Internal Tidal Bores." Science 253: 548-551.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and N. Kobayashi (1995). "Swash on a gently sloping beach." Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C5): 8751-8760.
Waves observed in the inner surf and swash zones of a fine grained, gently sloping beach are modeled accurately with the nonlinear shallow water equations. The model is initialized with observations from pressure and current sensors collocated about 50 m from the mean shoreline in about 1 m depth, and model predictions are compared to pressure fluctuations measured at five shoreward locations and to run-up. Run-up was measured with a vertical stack of five wires supported paralles to and above the beach face at elevations of 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 cm. Each 60-m-long run-up wire yields time series of the most shoreward location where the water depth exceeds the wire elevation. As noted previously, run-up measurements are sensitive to the wire elevation owing to thin run-up tounges not measured by the more elevated wires. As the wire elevation increases, the measured mean run-up location moves seaward, low-frequency (infragravity) energy decreases, and higher-frequency sea swell energy increases. These trends, as well as the variation of wave spectra and shapes (eg., wave skewness) across the inner surf zone, are well predicted by the numerical model.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar (1996). "Wave transformation across the inner surf zone." Journal of Geophysical Research 101(C10): 25, 589-525, 597.
Sea and swell wave heights observed on transects crossing the mid and inner surf zone on three beaches (a steep concave-up beach, a gently sloped approximately planar beach, and a beach with an approximately flat terract adjacent to a steep foreshore) were depth limited (i.e., approximately independent of the offshore wave height), consistent with previous observations. The wave evolution is well predicted by a numerical model based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water equations with bore dissipation. The model is initialized with the time series of sea surface elevation and cross-shore current observed at the most offshore sensors (located about 50 to 120 m from the mean shoreline in mean water dpeths 0.80 to 2.10 m). The model accurately predicts the cross-shore variation of energy at both infragarvity (nominally 0.004 < f ² 0.05 Hz) and sea swell (here 0.05 < f ² 0.18 Hz) frequencies. In models of surf zone hydrodynamics, wave energy dissipation is frequently parameterized in terms of g_s , the ratio of the sea swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed and predicted values of g_s increase with increasing beach slope b and decreasing normalized (by a characteristic wavenumber k) water depth kh and are well correlated with b/kh, a measure of the fractional change in water depth over a wavelength. Errors in the predicted individual values of g_s are typically less than 20%. It has been suggested that infragravity motions affect waves in the sea swell band and hence g_s, but this speculation is difficult to test with firld observations. Numerical simulations suggest that for the range of conditions considered here, g_s is insensitive to infragravity energy levels.

Raubenheimer, B. a. R. T. G. (1996). "Observations and predictions of run-up." Journal of Geophysical Research 101(C10): 25, 575-525, 588.
For a significant range of offshore wave conditions and foreshore slopes, run-up observations are compared to semiempirical formulations and predictions of an existing numerical model based on the depth-averaged one-dimensional nonlinear shallow water equations with bore-like breaking wave dissipation and quadratic bottom friction. The numerical model is initialized with time series of sea surface elevation and cross-shore velocity observed in 80 cm mean water depth (approximately 50 m offshore of the mean shoreline) on a gently sloping beach and in 175 cm water depth (100 m offshore of the shoreline) on a steep concave beach. Run-up was measured with a stack of resistance wires at elevations of 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 cm above and parallel to the beach face. At sea swell frequencies (nominally 0.05 < f ² 01.8 Hz), run-up energy is limited by surf zone dissipation of shoreward propagating waves so that increasing the offshore wave height above a threshold value does not substantially increase the predicted or observed sea swell run-up excursions (e.g., run-up is "saturated"). Existing semiempirical saturation formulations are most consistent with the observations and numerical model predictions of run-up excursions nearest the bed. In contrast, at infragravity frequencies (0.004 < f ² 0.05 Hz) where surf zone dissipation is relatively weak and reflection from the beach face is strong (e.g., saturation formulas are not applicable), the run-up excursions increase approximately linearly with increasing offshore wave height. The numerical model also accurately predicts that the tongue-like shape of the run-up results in sensitivity of run-up measurements to wire elevation. For instance, run-up excursions and mean vertical superelevation (above the offshore still water level) increase with decreasing wire elevation, and continuous thinning of the run-up tongue during the wave uprush can result in large phase differences between run-up excursions measured at different wire elevations. Numerical model simulations suggest that run-up measured more than a few centimeters above the bed cannot be used to infer even the sign of the fluid velocities in the run-up tongue.

Raubenheimer, B., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza (1998). "Estimating wave heights from pressure measured in a sand bed." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Engineering 124: 151-154.
Comparison of predicted with observed attenuation of pressure fluctuations shows that wave heights can be estimated with observations from a pressure sensor that is buried a known depth in fine sand. The attenuation of pressure fluctuations within the sand bed under unbroken shoaling waves, bores in the surf zone, and swash near the shoreline was measured with vertical stacks of buried pressure sensors. The attenuation increased with increasing frequency and depth below the bed surface, consistent with previous observations of an infinitely deep soil skeleton that is much more compressible than the pore fluid, the predicted pressure fluctuations decrease exponentially with increasing burial depth, and the attenuation is independent of the sediment properties. For the fine-grained sand beds considered here, this exponential limit accurately predicts the observed attenuation.

Rickett, B. J. (1972). "Disturbances in the solar wind from IPS measurements." Solar Physics 43: 237-247.

Scanland, T. B. (1971q). Effects of Predation on Epifaunal Assemblages in Submarine Canyon.

Schlising, R. A. a. E. L. S. (1982). "Quantitative analysis of vegetation at the Richvale Vernal Pools, California." American Journal of Bot. 69(5): p. 734-742.

Siegal, P. R. (1984). Studies of growth and reproduction in the sand crab, Emerita analoga. Santa Barbara, CA, University of California, Santa Barbara.

Siegal, P. R. a. A. M. W. (1984). "Abnormal reproduction of the sand crab in the vicinity of a nuclear generating station in Southern California." Marine Biology 80: 341-345.

Stewart, J. (1980). "Assemblages of algae and invertebrates in southern California dominated intertidal communities." Aquatic Botany 9: 73-94.

Stewart, J. G. (1982). "Anchor species and epiphytes in intertidal algal turf." Pacific Science 36(1): 45-59.
This study characterizes a turflike vegetation composed of benthic marine algae, in the low intertidal in southern California, by means of quantitative relative abundance data collected over a 2-year period. The algae comprise a relatively homogeneous assemblage that is fastened to the substrate by one to six "anchor" taxa with thalli that persist throughout the year and become reestablished on exposed surfaces within several months. Two species of Corallina together occupy more than 60 percent of the total substrate sampled. Epiphytes attached to these anchor species include 42 species that are con-sistently found and another 25 that are infrequently or incidentally recorded. Abundances of several of the epiphytes fluctuated during the sampling period, but the number of species present showed no distinct seasonal change. In the northern Gulf of California a similar-appearing turf includes several of the same species in different proportions, but anchor species are different. Many unrelated taxa in both turfs exhibit the same morphological characters. A census of macroinvertebrates associated with the southern California vegetation suggests that grazing is not important in maintaining the relatively uniform height of these plants.

Tutschulte, T. The Comparative Ecology of Three Sympatric Abalone.

Van Blaricom, G. R. (1978). Disturbance, Predation, and Resource Allocation in a High Energy Sublittoral Sand Bottom Ecosystem: Experimantal Analyses of Critical Structuring Processes.

Vaske, F. a. O. C. (1979). A proposed addition to the Scripps' Shoreline Reserve, La Jolla, CA.

Warme, N. F. (1969). "Marine borers in calcareous terrigenous rocks of the Pacific coast." Am. Zoologist 9: 765-774.

Warner, J. A., C. Arneson, R.W. Austin, D. Bailey, G. Huszar, P. James, R.R. McConnaughey, K. Nealson, and E.A. Stephan, Jr. (1984). "Scripps Canyon sea structure: A designated deployment for the study of oceanic bioluminesence." Marine Tech. Society J. 17(4): 40-47.

Wolfson, A. A. (1973). Some Effects of High Temperature on the Settlement and Development of a Marine Community in the Lab.

Yoshioka, P. M. (1973). The Population Dynamics and Ecology of the Encrusting Ectoproct Membranipora serrilamells.